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Origen Gold for Future:负责任宝石:从矿源到成品-彩色宝石供应链审视与合规采购替代方案(2025)(中译版)(38页).pdf

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1、Origen y trazabilidad de los materiales1GEMSTONESRESPONSIBLEFrom mine to jewel:a critical examination of the coloured gemstone supply chain for responsibly sourced alternatives From mine to jewel:a critical examination of the coloured gemstone supply chain for responsibly sourced alternativesORIGEN

2、Gold for FutureMedicus Mundi MediterrniaORIGEN Gold for Future and Medicus Mundi Mediterrnia Barcelona,2024Research and drafting:Carmen Garca-Carballido,Estel Peix and Katja Jesek In cooperation with Peter William Scott-Wilson,Adriana Daz,Emilie Bliguet,Francesc Picanyol,Jorge Prez,Jlia Mirete,Marta

3、 Rodrguez,Roc Majoral and Teresa EstapAcknowledgements:Alina Uhlit,Anne Waha,Ian Bone,Jessica Hudson,Karen Pulido,Stuart Pool and Susan WheelerTranslation into English and proofreading:Sam KirkDesign and layout:Dami MathewsThe contents of this document are the sole responsibility of the authors and

4、do not necessarily reflect the views of the funders.This work is licensed under a Creative Commons licenseWith the support of:GEMSTONESRESPONSIBLE1.INTRODUCTION 2.GEM TRADING CONTEXT2.1 Supply chain steps2.2 Natural gemstones and artificial gemstones 2.3 Gem pricing3.COLOURED GEMSTONE MINING3.1 Arti

5、sanal and small-scale mining for coloured gemstones 3.2 Human rights and environmental impacts in ASM of gemstones 3.3 Women in ASM:breaking the cycle of inequality and exclusion 3.4 Medium and large-scale coloured gemstone mining 3.5 The right to access land for mining610111516182024263034363842445

6、2545666704.THE GEM CUTTING AND POLISHING PROCESS 4.1 The work of the lapidary4.2 Human rights and environmental impacts in cutting 4.3 Gem treatments5.RESPONSIBLY SOURCED COLOURED GEMSTONES5.1 Responsible gemstone mining and sourcing5.2 Experiences of interest for responsible jewellery 6.FINAL THOUG

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1. **供应链问题**:彩色宝石供应链不透明,约90%产自非洲、亚洲和拉丁美洲的小规模手工采矿(ASM),80%的宝石经15个中间商,矿工仅获批发价5%,而“矿山到市场”模式可提升矿工收入5-8倍。 2. **环境影响**:ASM碳排放低,但无监管采矿导致土壤侵蚀、森林破坏;大型开采(如蒙图佩兹红宝石矿)破坏栖息地,排放温室气体。 3. **人权问题**:ASM中存在强迫劳动和童工,女性矿工占比30%-50%,但工资比男性低60%,且面临健康风险(尘肺病、疟疾等)。 4. **经济不平等**:例如马达加斯加矿工仅获宝石价值10%,而70%利润流向斯里兰卡和泰国;哥伦比亚祖母绿矿特许权使用费仅1%。 5. **负责任替代方案**:通过缩短供应链、支持公平贸易项目(如“MOYO gems”),可提升矿工权益,保障宝石可追溯性。
**宝石从哪来?** **谁在开采宝石?** **宝石如何定价?**
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